Consistency enhancers and thickeners

Gel, cream or serum – what really determines the consistency of a cosmetic product? In this blog post, we will go over how to use thickeners and thickeners to create the right texture and viscosity in your formulations.

What is a consistency enhancer or thickener?

Consistency enhancers are used to:

• Thicken water- or oil-based products

• Create gels, serums or creams

• Improve stability in emulsion systems

• Adjust the feeling on the skin (sensory)

They can be natural, synthetic or semi-synthetic – and the choice affects both the function and feel of the product.

The difference between gel, cream and serum

• Gel : Water-based and transparent with a light, cooling feel. Usually contains gelling agents such as xanthan gum or carbomer.

• Serum : Light liquid or semi-gel. High concentration of active ingredients. Can be water or oil-based.

• Cream : Emulsion of oil and water. The consistency is controlled by both the emulsifying system and thickening agents (e.g. cetyl alcohol, xanthan gum, lecithin).

Common consistency sensors you can test

🟣 Xanthan gum – Natural, suitable for both jellies and creams. Easy to use, but sometimes gives a bit of a "stringy" feeling.
🟣 Carbomer – Synthetic, provides clear and silky gel texture. Requires neutralization (e.g. with sodium hydroxide) to work.
🟣 Lecithin – Natural from soy or sunflower. Provides a softer texture and improved skin feel. Also acts as a co-emulsifier.
🟣 Hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC) – Good for water-based products. Produces clear jelly.
🟣 Cetyl Alcohol / Cetearyl Alcohol – Wax-like consistency agent in oil phase. Provides fullness in creams.
🟣 Guar gum / Konjac gum – Alternative to xanthan, provides different textures depending on concentration.

Tips for using them correctly

• Always read the manufacturer's recommended usage percentage.

• Some dissolve best in cold, others require heat or high pH.

• Dose small amounts at a time to avoid lumps – preferably pre-mix with glycerin.

• Combine different thickeners for customized texture!

Do you want to create a silky gel, a fluffy serum or a rich cream? It all starts with the right knowledge of thickeners. Experiment and write down what works best for your formulations!

With natural passion,
NSL Cosmetics